An important note on Jeju’s updated bus system and this blog post
From August 2017, Jeju Island implemented a new city and intercity bus system. It increased the number of buses in service, while simplifying the routes, fees and numbering system.
Consequently, the contents of this previously published blog post may have changed. We therefore would kindly request that you consult this page for new bus maps in English on VisitJeju.net, and this page on our blog for a chart of the old and new bus route numbers.
If you read Korean, then the province’s official bus system website is a useful and up-to-date resource. We hope you’ll enjoy your travels on Jeju Island!
This article regarding Jeju themed travel programs was originally published on our VisitJeju.net site. Please click here for the original piece and maps to the sites mentioned. — Ed.
As with many parts of Korea and the region in general, Jeju Island has experienced a significant amount of strife over the centuries. The Japanese occupation (dating roughly from 1910 to 1945) is one such event which has left lasting scars on the island and it’s people. But we shouldn’t look away…
The scars of Japanese military facilities on Jeju’s volcanic cones
Remnants of Jeju’s tragic history: The period of Japanese occupation
As one travels around the island, the various volcanic cones which you encounter are at first glance exemplars of natural beauty. Underneath, though, the trials and tribulations of the local people become clear when you see evidence of deforestation (using the trees to fuel stoves) or other manmade alterations to their rocky slopes or the shoreline of the island. The latter case generally involves military facilities built by the Japanese during its occupation of Korea and the Pacific War.
The scars of war covered in verdant fields
Altteureu Airfield
Amid farmers’ fields in the Songaksan area are some rather odd structures. The area’s large plateau is perfect for farmland and pastures. In fact, Altteureu means “wide garden below”. However, it was also seen by the Japanese military as a strategic place to build an airfield for its military objectives in the region.
And so this farmland, which would otherwise be life-giving, was turned into an instrument of war and death. From the 1920s, the residents of nearby Moseulpo were ordered by the Japanese military to begin construction on an airfield there. Reinforced concrete aircraft hangars, too, were strategically placed around the 660,000 square meter airfield. This was then expanded during the Pacific War to 3 million square meters. From here, Japanese forces launched attacks on China and sent off squadrons of Kamikaze pilots to defend southern Japan.
Today, just 19 of these hangars remain and only one is left in good condition to serve as a reminder and education tool for future generations of this terrible time in the history of mankind.
Altteureu Airfield Sangmo-ri, Daejeong-eup, Seogwipo-si From Jeju City Intercity Bus Terminal take bus 750-1 and get off at the Igyo-dong Intersection. Total travel time is about 1 hour and 48 minutes. Free parking available
A tragic secret hidden by nature
Japanese-made Cave Encampment at Sesal Oreum
The place is otherwise idyllic, with its gorgeous views of Hyeongjaeseom Islets, Sanbangsan Mountain, and Hallasan Mountain to the north. It is a typical Jeju scene… peaceful and calm. And yet built underneath was one of the Japanese occupations largest military encampments and cave systems in Jeju. It is made up of a 1.2-kilometer-long network of tunnels with six entrances, all engineered to hide crucial military facilities underground and protect them from air raids by Allied Forces during the Pacific War. These facilities included a command HQ, soldiers’ barracks, fuel storage, aircraft repair facilities, communication rooms, and more. This site is of significant historical importance in demonstrating the realities of war. In terms of its educational value, this site is designated Cultural Property No. 310.
Japanese-made Cave Encampment at Sesal Oreum 316 Sangmo-ri, Daejeong-eup, Seogwipo-si From Jeju City Intercity Bus Terminal take bus 755 and get off at the Hamo Exercise Park bus stop, then transfer to bus 951 and get off at Sanisu-dong bus stop. Total travel time is about 1 hour and 35 minutes. Free parking available
Marks of mankind left on nature
Japanese-made Coastal Cave Encampment at Songaksan Mountain
Carved into an otherwise pristine coastal cliff at Songaksan Mountain are Japanese military caves built in 1945 — the tail end of their Pacific War campaign. It was part of their final attempt to defend against approaching Allied troops, a so-called “Operation No. 7” to hide and protect its military equipment, including small submarines and anti-aircraft guns.
There are 15 man-made caves carved into the rock in a variety of shapes. The longest is 57.3 meters. These are now designated Cultural Property No. 313 and serve as a sad reminder of the damage and death which war inflicts on current — and future — generations.
Japanese-made Coastal Cave Encampment at Songaksan Mountain 195-2 Sangmo-ri, Daejeong-eup, Seogwipo-si From Jeju City Intercity Bus Terminal take bus 755 and get off at the Hamo Exercise Park bus stop, then transfer to bus 951 and get off at Sanisu-dong bus stop. Total travel time is about 1 hour and 35 minutes. Free parking available
The pain of history relived in everyday life
Japanese Military Facility at Moseulbong Peak
Built by the Japanese when they faced defeat at the end of their occupation of Korea and the Pacific War, this 200-square-meter Y-shaped concrete military facility has 15 ventilation shafts and is believed to have been an electrical power plant or munitions storage. In good repair, until recently it was used by farmers to store sweet potatoes. It is Registered Cultural Property No. 314.
Japanese Military Facility at Moseulbong Peak in Jeju 3415 Sangmo-ri, Daejeong-eup, Seogwipo-si From Jeju City Intercity Bus Terminal take bus 755 and get off at the Daejeong High School bus stop. Total travel time is about 1 hour and 14 minutes. Free parking available
Painful history remembered
Jeju Peace Museum
This museum has an exhibition hall with real items and documents from the Japanese occupation and war effort. On site is also the Gama Oreum Japanese Underground Fortress (registered Cultural Property No. 308 in December 2006.) The total length of this man-made cafe is more than 2 kilometers with a three-floor structure. There is also a theater which seats 1,200 people and shows video testimony of individuals involved in the war and occupation, a poignant reminder of the the misery of war and indisputable evidence that there are no winners or losers, only victims.
Jeju Peace Museum 63 Cheongsuseo 5-gil, Hangyeong-myeon, Jeju-si 08:30~18:00 (summer) 08:30~17:00 (winter) (Tickets available until 1 hour before closing time) Adults 6,000 won, Youth, Children 4,000 won From Jeju City Intercity Bus Terminal take bus 702 to the Gosan Post Office bus stop, then transfer to bus 952 and get off at Pyeonghwa-dong Hwaegwan bus stop. Total travel time is approximately 2 hours and 23 minutes. Free parking available
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